Ok I have been trying to escape and find time to work on my moulage and I am glad I am tenacious. I WILL NOT GIVE UP!!
The second moulage I tweaked my draft a bit to try to get rid of some of these wrinkles. But the major problem was lowering my bust points by at least an inch. This caused me to have to redraft an entire paper plotted moulage because it changed all three of the darts that derive from the bust points.
Here is my second cut out muslin. Yay for the bust darts in the right place but its obvious I measured my waist wrong since I can not close up center front easily! It turns out my natural waist is much higher and when I measured exactly where we are supposed to by the naval I was off by 4 inches!!!! Son of a %#%^#^#%#%#%%#
So yes after walking around the house like an angry bird and cursing the air blue I counted to 1,000 and proceeded to triple check all measurements....... Yup you guessed it!! I was off on a few more (not by 4 inches) but 1/2 inch to 1 inch will make huge differences when it is supposed to fit like a glove.
At this point my glumness, and sour mood intrigued my husband. He decided to peak in on my plotted lines for the moulage and saw the detail of all the measurements and angles, math, etc. He exclaimed "Wow that looks like Leonardo Da Vinci sketches from the 15th century! What a ridiculous amount of work!" Being a computer programmer he can sympathize with hours upon hours of work and the end result still not quite what you need it to be. SO MUCH TWEAKING!!! I swear sewing is sometimes so stressful I need a scooby snack or two or three!
Yes once again it was "back to the drawing board" I drafted my 3rd paper moulage and had a difficult time with the shoulder slope. In order to construct the armhole with my new measurements I had to raise the slope by 1 inch. My instructor talks about the slope nearly ALWAYS needing to be LOWERED!! Thank goodness in the comment section there was another student in the same dilemma as myself and the instructor suggested to only raise the shoulder by 1/2 inch. So I tried that and nervously cut out my 3RD MUSLIN!
Much better. I can close up center front and it lies closer to the body, but that darn shoulder slope was throwing off my bust points now! Which looked like they were 1/2 inch to low! Who wants saggy sisters!??ARGGGGGGHHHH more alcohol, more deep breaths and I tried that cotton nemesis back on!
Ok, so yes I will raise the shoulders up by 1/2 inch. I will deepen the armholes to get rid of wrinkles around the armsyce. I will bow in my seams near my natural waist! I proceed to try these changes on the muslin and EURKA!!!
It did work! IT WORKED! IT WORKED! I am now perfectly happy with the front bodice. Now here is the back bodice picture! Yes I have not reworked or redrafted my back moulage a 3rd time. It seems that my back length is too long; that is why I am getting the folds at my waist. I think? There are also drag lines around the under arm so I will scoop my armsyce out more in the back as well.
So close, but no dice; yet! I plan to send these pictures to my instructor to confirm I should leave the front be? And what back changes should I make?
I hope to be done with this moulage fitting soon because my angry bird routine is wearing on my husbands patience. He keeps saying "Why don't you just go to the store and buy some clothes!?" or "Just buy a pattern that actually fits you!" HA HA then I proceeded to laugh and laugh and laugh!