Pattern alterations and Dress forms

Ok I recently bought a shit load  boat load of faux suede fabric. I have a coat pattern that I am going to use it for. So I pulled out the pattern and I am a size large as per the pattern measurements bust 36, waist 30, hip 40

So I cut out the pattern pieces and decided to check the fit on my dress form. Lets stop for a minute and discuss dress forms. If you are thinking of getting one I highly recommend it! It is sooooo much easier adjusting a fit for yourself on a dress form. DO NOT waste your money on an adjustable form like they sell at Joann Fabrics because it is not pin-able and expands so that you lose your midline reference point.

I bought my dress form on for a pretty reasonable price. Now because hardly anyone has a body like a mannequin I also bought the  padding to add to my dress form to replicate my exact body dimensions. This system is called Fabulous Fit and is also sold on

Alright that all said I took my pattern pieces and pinned it to the dress form on my seam lines to see how it would fit.

I AM SO GLAD I DID THIS!! Check out how awful the fit was:

Check how much ease I have at the hip (way to much) and the shoulder seam is way to long!

So I basically took 1 inch off my side seams and 1 inch off the arm hole and sleeve. I remade my pattern out of tracing paper.

I then rechecked the fit with new pattern pieces on the dress form making sure I match up midline points and the vertical and horizontal markings line up properly. This will give you confidence that the pattern will work without having to make a muslin or worse cut into your expensive fabric only to find out it fits like a garbage bag!

Now I will say that making a muslin is well worth your time and effort when constructing something that is more close-fitting (less ease). Since this was a jacket, I was confident that just trying my pattern tracings on my dress form would suffice.

So I cut out all the pieces of my jacket and started on construction:

Remember to check your nap!! I almost cut out my pieces on the wrong nap and this pocket is easy to also flip and not have the nap the same.

See the nap here matches.

Ok so here are a few more pics of my progress:



Do you see the darker spots here! I burned my coat with the #@#* iron. I was using an ironing cloth all the way through this project and got distracted for a second and forgot to use the cloth!  Darn it,  no fixing this I guess I have to live with it. :(